Catnip – Everything You Need to Know About Catnip!

Catnip –   Everything You Need to Know About Catnip!

 

       Catnip   is a perennial herb and member of the Mint family Labiatae that is well known for it’s ability to get cat’s high. It is native to   Europe & Asia, however has become naturalised in America & Canada   after being introduced. There are approximately 250 species of Catnip, and   this figure doesn’t include hybrid species. Some of the more readily   available ones are:

Common   Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
White flowers, grows up to 3 feet. This is the variety most cats enjoy.

Camphor   Catnip (Nepeta camphorata
White flowers with purple dots, grows up to 18 inches. Camphor scent.

Greek   Catnip (Nepeta parnassica)
White, pale pink flowers, grows up to 18 inches.

Lemon   Catnip (Nepeta cataria citriodora)
White flowers, spotted with purple, grows up to 3 feet. The leaves have a   lemony scent.

Catmint   (Nepeta mussinii)
Purple flowers. This plant has smallish, grey/green leaves. It   grows up to 15 inches high.

The   name Nepeta is believed to have come from the town of Nepete in   Italy. Cataria is thought to have come from the Latin word for cat.

Catnip   is also known by the following names:   Cataria,  Catmint,   Catnep, Catrup, Cat’s Heal All,  Cat’s-play, Cat’s Wort, Catswort,   Catwort, Chi Hsueh Tsao, Field Balm, Garden Nep, Herba Cataria, Herba Catti,   Nebada, Nep.

The   active ingredient which causes this is an essential oil called nepetalactone,   which can be found in the leaves & stem of the plant. Other constituents   include Acetic Acid,  Alpha & beta-nepetalactone, Citral,    Nepetalactone,  Geraniol, Dipentene, Citronellol, Nerol, Butyric Acid,   Valeric Acid and Tannins.

When   a cat encounters catnip, it usually sniffs it, rubs against it, licks it   & finally eats it. It’s actually the sniffing that gets produces the   high, it’s believed that cats eat catnip to bruise the catnip & therefore   release more of the nepetalactone. The high produced will usually last   between five & ten minutes.

When   sniffed, catnip will stimulate a cat, however when eaten it will act as a   sedative.

Around   50% of cats are affected by catnip, and those who are, are affected to   differing degrees. Kittens younger than 8 weeks old aren’t  able to   enjoy it’s effects. In fact, they show an aversion to it.  The response   to catnip appears to be inherited as an autosomal gene. It’s not just   domesticated cats who enjoy the effects of catnip, many lot of wild species   also enjoy it.  Cats can smell 1 part in a billion  in the air.   Males & females, entire or desexed, there appears to be no one group who   is more readily affected by catnip than another.

Nepetalactone causes a hallucinogenic effect. Some say the   effects are similar to LSD, others say similar to marijuana. Because cats   roll on the floor, which mimics a female in estrus, it has been suggested   that catnip acts as an aphrodisiac, but this is unlikely as males react in   just the same way. What is likely is the cat is reacting to similar   “feel good” pheromones released during  sexual   courtship/activity. However, non sexual behaviour including playing, chasing   & hunting can also be observed.  The response to catnip is via the   olfactory system. Even cats who can’t smell will can still respond to catnip.

The   effects of catnip seem to change from cat to cat. I have one cat who drools   & rolls on the floor, I have another one who becomes very hyperactive, a   third becomes aggressive, and picks fights with the other cats when he’s had   catnip.

Catnip is not harmful to your cat. They won’t overdose on   it.  Most cats know when they’ve had enough & will refuse any   further offers.

Interestingly,   researchers say that nepetalactone is about ten times more effective at   repelling mosquitos than DEET, which is the active ingredient in most insect   repellents. It was also discovered that catnip repels cockroaches   too!* Plants aren’t alone in containing nepetalactone, some insects   & ants also contain it. It’s been speculated that this protects them from   insects.

Rats   & mice are also believed to have a strong dislike of catnip & will   avoid places where it grows.

If   you set it, the cats will eat it. If you sow it, the cats don’t know it.
Philip Miller, The Gardener’s Dictionary

This   saying came about because fresh catnip is supposedly more attractive to cats   when it is bruised & transplanting catnip bruises the leaves. I   don’t know how much truth there is to that, certainly my cats will have a   nibble on the catnip I keep in their enclosure, which hasn’t been bruised.

Catnip   is usually fairly easy to grow, you should be able to  purchase the   plant from your local garden centre. It likes light sandy soil, and grows   best in full sun.

Most   pet shops either sell catnip toys, or tried catnip. When storing catnip, put   it in an air tight container, in the fridge or freezer.

To   dry fresh catnip, hang upside down in a dry, ventilated area, away from the   sun.

Human   uses:

Catnip   tends to have a sedative effect on humans. It is most often drunk as a tea.

It is   also useful for settling an upset stomach. It has also been used to   treat headaches, scarlet fever, coughing, insomnia & smallpox.

Catnip   can also be used for cuts, studies show it has a natural healing quality.   Crush fresh catnip leaves, damp them & apply to your cut. **

Some   other medicinal uses for catnip are: Anaesthetic, antibiotic, anti rheumatic,   antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, muscular aches and pains,   rheumatism, chills, cold in the joints, haemorrhoids, toothache.

K’Eogh,   in his Irish Herbal (1735) wrote of catnip, “It provokes   urination and menstruation: it expels the stillborn child; it opens   obstructions of the lungs and the womb, and is good for internal bruises and   shortness of breath. Drunk with salt and honey, it expels worms from the body.”   ***

Pregnant   women should avoid catnip.

It   can also be used as an aromatic herb in cooking & salads.

According   to The Herb Garden, “The root when chewed is said to make the most   gentle person fierce and quarrelsome”. In fact, there is a story about   an executioner who would have to chew on the root of catnip so he could bring   himself to do kill.

Valerian   also produces the same reaction in cats. As do plants which contain the   chemical Actinidine.

Bibliography

* Science   Daily

**     277 Secrets Your Cat Wants You to Know by Paulette Cooper & Paul Noble.

*** Herbal   Advisor

Declawing! What You Need To Know

Declawing! What You Need To Know

What does it mean when a cat is declawed? How is it done? Examine the drawing

on the bottom of this post.

The cat’s claw is not a toenail at the end of the toe as in other animals. It is

movable digit attached to muscle as a finger might be. Note that strong ligaments

and tendons which give power to extend and retract the claws. This is unique in

cats. Without this your cat would not be able to properly grasp, hold or establish

footing for proper walking, running, springing, climbing or stretching. Think of

the cat as having 10 toes on each foot. Declawing is akin to cutting off half their

toes. When the end digit, including the claw is removed, the sensory and motor

nerves are cut, damaged and destroyed. They do not repair themselves or grow

back for many months. Following the surgery there is a wooden lack of feeling,

then a tingling sensation during the long convalescence while the cat must

walk on the stub end of the second digit. Remember that during all this time

the cat may not “rest” his feet as we would after a similar operation but must

continue to scratch in his litter box, walk and attempt to jump as usual

regardless of his pain.

Since cats have keener senses then humans, they suffer even more than humans.

Many pain killing drugs, including aspirin, do not agree with cats and can cause

illness or even death. Anyone who has had surgery will appreciate the problem

that can be created by the inability to take pain-relieving medication. It is also

possible for the claws to grow back, but often not in the normal manner, instead

they may grow through the top or bottom of the paw,creating a bloody, painful

sore. An Atlanta news station recently had a story of a declawing followed by

infection so severe that the cat’s foot had to be amputated.

The cat’s body is especially well designed. The skeleton is better jointed and more

elastic than most other animals and the muscles governing the lithe body are highly

developed. This gives the cat great climbing power. The sharp claws can be

whipped out for business or tucked neatly away. The elastic tendon holds the claw

in it’s own sheath. The claw is flat on each side so it will slide in and out better.

When the cat pulls his claw down with the use of the big tendon that lies along the

under part of the toe, the ligament stretches like a fresh rubber band. It is hooked

on the end for hanging on.

Cats like to keep their claws sharp and clean (and remove the outer sheath of the

nail) by working on the scratching post you provide. Equipping your cat with the

proper scratching post and taking the time to train him to use it will help preserve

your furniture and carpets. Scratching posts made of soft carpeting teach your cat

that soft fabrics, i.e. your sofa and rugs, are proper for scratching. A better idea

are posts made of sisal rope or carpet turned inside out. This encourages your cat

to scratch on hard, coarse surfaces. Training your cat to use this post takes some

effort on your part. If you see him attempting to scratch on furniture or carpet, clap

your hands sharply, say no! then pick him up gently and place him on the sisal

post. (If stronger measures are needed, you might also want to keep a squirt bottle

with plain water handy.) If your cat seems to prefer a particular area, try covering it

with aluminum foil for a while. Catnip-treated cardboard scratchers, best used lying

flat, are also effective. Most cats are pretty smart and after a short time, and much

praise, will get the idea. It is also essential to properly clip your cat’s claws with a

well-made cat claw scissors. The sharp hook must be clipped off without injuring

the pink quick. Cutting into the quick will hurt the cat and you will have a difficult

time holding him quiet the next time.

Besides the physical mutilation, consider what declawing may do to the cat’s

emotions, the personality changes that may occur. Knowing he has not the means

to defend himself, some cats follow the precept of the best defense is a good

offense, and will bite at the least provocation (and it may truly be the least

provocation.) Others become depressed and lose the loving personality that

made you choose him to start with.

“The Learning Channel” had a series of documentaries about cats in January of

1993 and again in July 1995 and several of their comments were appropriate to

this post. In one segment a cat owner spoke to a pet psychologist about her biting

cat. It was no surprise to me when she admitted that the cat was declawed.

Another segment showed a kitten being declawed. The commentator said that

declawing was an American procedure and, in fact, most veterinarians in other

countries refuse to do the operation.

I have recently heard about another nasty piece of business that some

veterinarians are advocating as an “alternative” to Declawing; Tendonectomy-

the cutting of the tendons themselves to prevent the claws from being extended.

This is a bad, if not worse, than declawing itself. The claws continue to grow and

constant maintenance of trimming must be done for the rest of the cat’s life. ( The

same trimming procedure that if done anyway will keep your cat’s intact claws

shortened, blunted and less damaging to your furniture.) Failure to trim claws in

this situation will result in additional veterinary attention throughout the cat’s life

as the claws will grow around and into the paw pad of the foot. You can imagine

how much daily pain a cat would have to go through in this condition.

If you really love your cat, you will want him to lead a long, happy life,

giving and receiving love and affection. If you really love him, and care about him,

don’t declaw him

We wish to thank and give credit to the All State Burmese Society, a CFA club, from whom the bulk of this information was gathered.

Misconceptions About Cats

Misconceptions About Cats

Before deciding to adopt, please be aware of some common misconceptions about

cats and cat care.

Misconception #1 

 Cats are low-maintenance pets

While a cat does not need to be taken out for daily walks as a dog does, they are

by no means low-maintenance– either in the amount of interaction they require

or in the financial responsibility they represent.

Taking on a pet of any kind is a large commitment in terms of both time and

money. Cats are social animals who want and need interaction with their

owners. As with any animal, cats cannot communicate verbally with their

owners, so it is the owner’s responsibility to be constantly watchful of the

animals behavior and alert to any abnormalities. Those who believe that

cats can take care of themselves will be unaware of subtle behavioral

changes that can be signs of the onset of serious illness or injury.

In terms of financial commitment, cat owners should plan to spend

between $800 to $1,000 per year per cat on the basics: food, litter

and regular vet care. These costs, of course, increase dramatically

should an illness or injury occur which would require  additional

vet care and/or hospitalization.

 

Misconception #2
Cats can be left alone for a few days at a time and will take care of

themselves.

Not true at all! If an owner is going to be gone for more than 12-14 hours,

someone else should be assigned or hired to look in on and take care of the

cat. Cats who are left alone for long periods of time can get into all sorts of

trouble, become depressed, and even get sick.

For example, a cat who develops a urinary track infection can become critically

ill in less than 24 hours. Therefore, if you are even planning just a short weekend

getaway, a pet sitter or a friend should be looking in on the cat at least twice per

day. This person should plan to stay for a minimum of one hour so they can

observe the cat and make note of any behavioral abnormalities (ideally, it should

be someone who knows the cat fairly well so the better to notice if something

seems different). Of course, the caregiver should be provided with contact

information for the owner as well as the phone number to the nearest

emergency veterinary clinic and copies of all the animal’s medical record.
Misconception #3 
Cats need to go outdoors and hunt in order to be happy, this is natural

for them.

In today’s world, letting your cat outdoors for any reason or any length of time is

akin to playing Russian Roulette. Outdoor cats are at risk for injury or death

a result of disease, other animals, poison, sadistic people, animal “bunchers” who

collect strays and outdoor pets to sell to laboratories, cars, foul weather, and a host

of other dangers.

Outdoor cats have an average life span of five to seven years, as opposed to their

indoor counterparts, who frequently live to be 15 or older. We have domesticated

our pets, and as such a responsibility to take care of them and look out for their

well being. Your cat may look longingly out the window as though he wants to

go out, but the bottom line is that it is not safe. Creating a stimulating

environment for them inside your home with cat trees, toys, etc., and giving

your pets lots of attention and exercise will ensure that they have a full and

enriched life while remaining safely indoors.
Misconception #4
Pregnant women cannot live safely with a cat.

Many physicians mistakenly inform their patients that they must get rid of

their cat or cats in order to ensure the safety of their unborn child. This

misconception is based on fear of a parasitic disease called Toxoplasmosis,

which can be transmitted from a variety of sources to a pregnant woman

and can be dangerous to her fetus.

Cats are exposed to this parasite through the ingestion of live prey (for

example, mice) and it can be passed by the cats to humans through

handling the cat’s feces, which most commonly occurs during litter box

cleaning. However, assuming the cats are indoor animals (not catching

live prey), there is no danger that a pregnant women or her unborn baby

will contract the parasite from the cat. In fact, pregnant women run more

risk of exposing their baby to Toxoplasmosis by handling raw or undercooked

meat in their kitchen than by handling their indoor cat.

That said, as a precaution, it is best for another family member to be responsible

for litter box cleaning during the pregnancy (and good practice, since after the

baby is born, Mom is certain to have her hands full and this task may need to

be permanently reassigned) or alternatively, for the mother-to-be to wear

gloves and wash her hands thoroughly after cleaning the box if she must

do it herself. Pregnant women should also use caution when gardening in

outdoor areas, which may have been used by strays as open-air litter box.

Misconception #5
A declawed cat is safer for a home with small

children than one which has claws.

 In fact, exactly the opposite is true. A declawed cat, feeling as though its

first line  of defense is missing, is much more likely to be a biter. Children

often do things that may irritate a cat, such as pulling its ears or tail, and

the animal’s natural  reaction is to defend itself. A declawed cat does not

have the option scratching the child as a deterrent so it is likely to bite

first and ask questions later.

Unfortunately, while a scratch tends to be superficial and will heal easily,

bits are puncture wounds and are serious injuries to anyone, especially a

young child.

Expectant or new parents who declaw their cats in hopes that it will

protect their children are actually exposing them to much more serious

injuries. Children should be taught as early as possible how to

appropriately interact with the family cat, minimizing the occasions

on which the cat may need to defend itself.

It goes without saying that for the safety of both the child and the

animal, young children should never be left unsupervised for any

length of time with any kind of pet.

 

Misconception #6
My Older cat needs a kitten to liven him up!

In general, adopting a kitten (1½ years or younger) as a companion

for an older cat ( 5 years and older) is not a good idea. A youngster has

boundless energy, wants to play and run constantly, and requires very

high amounts interaction–all of which are likely to overwhelm and

irritate an older cat in short order. Likewise, a kitten is apt to be

frustrated that its companion does not have the same energy level

as itself. At the very least, this can lead to two very unhappy cats.

Worse case scenario, behavior problems such as litter ox avoidance

or destructive scratching can occur as one or both cats act out their

frustrations on their surrounds.

Long-term, it is almost certain that the two will never have a close,

bonded relationship, even after the kitten matures, since their

experience with one another from the beginning of the relationship

are likely to be negative. An older cat is better matched with someone

of their own age who has similar temperament. Likewise, kittens as a

rule need other young cats to play with in order to be happy.

If you insist on adding a kitten to a household that already has an older

cat, at least get two–this way they will entertain one another and the

older cat can participate or not depending on its mood.

Why Cats Scratch

Why Cats Scratch

By Daniel Q. Estep, Ph.D. and Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D.

Excerpt from Cat Fancy March 1994

By understanding your cat’s scratching behavior, you can prevent damage to your home.
One of the most common complaints cat owners have is that their feline friends destroy furniture, draperies, screens or other property with their claws. Destructive scratching is so widespread that an entire industry has emerged, producing scratching products as well as self-help books and audiotapes.

Scratching is a serious problem in some households but can be reduced or resolved if approached properly. To understand destructive scratching and the ways to resolve it, you first must understand a little about cat social organization and communication.

The Basics

Why do cats scratch? The short answer is because scratching is an instinctive behavior. The long answer is much more interesting. Observations of feral cats and other outdoor cats show that cats are frequently territorial, letting other cats know of their presence by leaving visual and scent marks. To mark territory, cats spray urine on objects or rub their heads, mouths and tails on things, leaving scent marks behind. Cats also mark territory by scratching tree trunks, posts, the corners of buildings or other conspicuous objects in their environment. This behavior, animal behaviorists believe, leaves clear visual marks as well as scent marks for other cats. Scratching behavior is characterized by the cat stretching out its body, reaching up the tree or post, and alternatively dragging one forepaw, then the other, across the surface.

Scratching behavior may have other functions. Because scratching frequently occurs after naps, some people believe it allows the cat to stretch out tight muscles in the body and legs. Others believe the behavior helps the cat remove the outer layers of its claws to keep them in good condition.

Animal behaviorists currently believe that the primary function of scratching is communication and that stretching and claw conditioning are only secondary functions. This belief stems from many reasons. First, cats can condition their claws without scratching by removing the worn sheaths with their teeth. Most cats use this method to condition their back claws. Second, declawed cats seem able to stretch tight muscles adequately without scratching. Third, cats tend to scratch the same trees or posts again and again, leaving the surfaces visibly worn. If the behavior stemmed only from a need to stretch or condition claws, a cat would scratch wherever it had the urge, not in just a few conspicuous places. Finally, some evidence shows that cats are more likely to scratch objects in the presence of other cats or after spraying an object with urine.

While scratching behavior is fascinating when observed in outdoor cats, owners of indoor cats seldom hold the same scientific detachment when the cat shreds the arm of a $1,500 sofa. Clearly the behavior is the same, but when property damage occurs, the results cause much more concern.

How can you prevent or stop damage from cat scratching? Three basic approaches exist. You can change the environment, making it difficult for your cat to scratch inappropriate items; you can modify the cat’s behavior using rewards or punishment; or you can alter the cat’s claws to prevent damage. As with most behavior problems, preventing the behavior is much easier than stopping an ongoing problem.

The Environmental Approach

The environmental approach to preventing scratching involves offering the cat an attractive scratching post and making other areas unattractive. Because scratching is a natural, instinctive behavior, it is almost impossible to prevent or stop it entirely. You can, however, reduce or eliminate destruction of property by encouraging your cat to scratch a designated scratching post or another object.

The structure, texture and location of the post are critical to getting the cat to use it. In Canine and Feline Behavioral Therapy, Drs. Ben and Lynette Hart offer sound advice about scratching posts. Make sure an upright post is stable, they suggest, so it will not tip over. Observe your cat’s scratching behavior to determine which type of surface it prefers. For example, some cats prefer horizontal surfaces to the standard vertical ones. If you offer your cat a horizontal scratching board, make sure the board will not tip over or move around when the cat attempts to scratch.

When choosing an upright post, select one with a scratching surface that extends three feet (36”) or more above the base. The size of the cat should determine the size of the post: smaller cats need smaller posts, while larger cats need larger posts. Cats seem to prefer flat boards or posts with corners edges that also can be scratched. If your cat prefers horizontal scratching, offer a board that is six to eight inches wide and at least 12 to 16 inches long.

Preference studies by Dr. Ben Hart show that the texture of the scratching post’s covering is critical to whether the cat will use it. Cats vary in their individual texture preferences, but they tend to prefer loosely woven fabrics with a vertical weave that shred easily. In fact, cats seem to prefer scratching posts where the material is quite shredded and worn. This makes sense when you remember that the major function of scratching is to leave a highly visible mark-the more tattered the covering, the more visible it is. Because cats tend to prefer worn post coverings to new ones, don’t replace the coverings too soon. Leave the covering until it falls off or the cat loses interest in the post.

The least preferred material seems to be a tightly woven, knubby fabric. The fabric tends to catch the claws, not allowing them to easily shred the material. To make a post covered with such a fabric more attractive to your cat, cover it with a loosely woven fabric.

The location of the post is important, too. Cats like to scratch soon after waking up, so place the post near the sleeping area. Cats often scratch in conspicuous places, which may explain why your cat prefers to scratch the arm of the couch rather than a post placed in a rarely used back room. In this case, placing a post near highly visible, heavily traveled areas may help modify the behavior. To divert your cat from an inappropriate area, place a scratching post in front of the object that is already being scratched.

Some cats seem to scratch posts as part of a greeting ritual with people. In this case, locating posts near doors may be helpful. In general, cats scratch in several locations, so having several posts is a good idea, especially in multicat households.

You can break established scratching habits with consistent, diligent attempts. The key is not to try to change or prevent the behavior but rather to change the preference for the location or surface for scratching. In general, preferences are most easily changed by making the new location or surface-the post-as attractive as possible while making the old location or surface-the damaged property-as unattractive as possible.

To make the damaged property unattractive, you should cover it with something unpleasant to scratch, such as a plastic rug runner, or something with a different texture, such as a nubby fabric. Then cover the post with something attractive, such as a loose woven fabric, and place it directly in front of the damaged area. If the location is inconvenient, gradually move the post to another location once the cat is scratching reliably.

Damage from cat claws can result from activities other than scratching. Cats can damage property with their front or back claws while jumping up or down from elevated surfaces such as bookshelves, climbing objects such as screen doors or moving quickly across smooth surfaces such as oak tables. Damage usually results from the cat using its claws to get traction on smooth, angled or vertical surfaces. The behavior is not the same as scratching, and you may need to use different approaches to correct it.

To prevent your cat from damaging property by climbing, jumping or running across it, make the areas inaccessible or modify them so they give the cat an unpleasant experience. You can do this in a variety of ways. To make drapes or screens impossible to climb, cover them with thick, smooth plastic. Cover counters, tables or the tops of stereo speakers with plastic rug runners turned pointy side up, creating an unpleasant surface for the cat to walk or sit on. Electronic mats such as the Scat Mat (Contech Electronics Inc., Dept. CF, P.O. Box 115, Saanichton, British Columbia, Canada V05 1M0) or vibration sensors such as the TattleTale (K-II Enterprises, Dept. CF, P.O. Box 306, Camillus, NY 13031) can make surfaces unpleasant, too, and help reduce potential damage.

Behavioral Approaches

Sometimes simply providing an attractive scratching post and making an inappropriate area unattractive is all you need to do to get a cat to scratch appropriately. If you offer a kitten or a newly acquired adult cat a post with characteristics described earlier, the cat will be more likely to use the post and less likely to develop bad scratching habits. In other cases, however, environmental modifications are not enough to prevent or stop scratching problems.

A cat doesn’t necessarily scratch a post simply because it is there. The cat may need encouragement. This does not mean you should take your cat to the post and forcibly drag the animal’s claws over the covering. Some people advocate this approach, believing the experience of scratching the post or the scent marks left on the post from scratching will attract the cat back in the future. If you frighten the cat with a forceful experience, however, the cat will learn to avoid the post as well as you. You should make the scratching experience pleasant by using encouragement.

You can encourage your cat to scratch by dangling a toy or a piece of string on the post. As the cat attempts to grab the toy, it may be encouraged to scratch. Rewarding spontaneous scratching on the post with praise, petting or a tasty tidbit can help, too. Finally, you may encourage your cat to scratch the post by making scratching movements against the post as the cat watches. It may imitate your behavior.

Punishing scratching behavior is rarely successful in stopping it. You aren’t always able to catch your cat in the act of scratching, so you deliver inconsistent punishments. At best, you may stop the destruction in your presence but not at other times. At worst, the destruction continues and the cat becomes afraid of you, disrupting your relationship. If you catch your cat in the act of scratching an inappropriate object, you can stop the behavior with a remote punishment, such as a squirt of water or a sudden loud noise. Better yet, gently take the cat to its scratching post and encourage it to scratch using the techniques described above.

Modifications Of The Claws

If environmental and behavioral approaches do not stop damage to property, you may need to alter your cat’s claws. The easiest and most humane way to do so is to regularly trim the cat’s claws. Blunt claws do less damage than sharp ones. Trim the claws about once a week, and always avoid the blood vessels and nerves in the base of the claws so you do not injure the cat. If you aren’t sure how to trim your cat’s claws, ask your veterinarian to show you.

Another option is to apply soft plastic coverings, such as Soft Paws, to the claws. The coverings reduce damage, are safe for cats and attach easily to claws with a nontoxic adhesive. The only disadvantage is that the coverings fall off with the claw sheaths every few weeks and must be replaced. If you’re interested in this option, talk to your veterinarian.

You should not choose the surgical procedure of declawing without carefully considering all other options. As with any surgical procedure, the cat will experience discomfort immediately following the surgery, and some risk of surgical complications exits. Declawing does reduce the ability of a cat to defend itself against predators such as dogs and coyotes, so you should restrict a declawed cat’s outdoor activities.

Essentials for Anyone Who is Considering Adopting a New Puppy

f_11310586362_keyboard.jpgThe day you bring a new puppy or dog into your home is a red letter day indeed. It may be an exhausting one for you. It certainly will be for him. This is also one of the most critical moments in your relationship, because first impressions are indelibly marked on the animal mind. It is vital to establish from the beginning an atmosphere of security, affection, and mutual confidence. In short, the goal is to make your dog feel at home.

Your puppy will come to you with no worldly goods at all, so you must provide him with his first essential possessions;

- A bed, slightly larger than your dog

- A blanket, again slightly larger than needed

- A water bowl, (stainless steel or earthenware, but not glazed pottery, which contains lead that is poisonous to dogs)

- A light puppy collar with an identification tag, leather is best, flat for short-haired breeds, round for long haired

- A leather leash with a strong clip fastener

- A comb and brush, the canine kind, (suitable to his breed)

- A squeaky toy

- A chewing toy of rawhide or a nylon or both

- A hard rubber ball (Big enough so that he cannot swallow it, but light enough for him to carry around in his mouth)

- Finally, and most important of all, a name

These are just some of the items you should have on hand when considering adopting a new pet. Always remember to get your dogs spayed or neutered to help control the pet population.

Common Dog Diseases, Illnesses and Conditions

f_21311110158_135.jpgLike all pet animals, dogs too are prone to lots of diseases. To keep the dogs free from the diseases, they should be understood first and accordingly treated well with the assistance of the veterinarian. Some of the common dog diseases are discussed below:

Rabies: Rabies is a very common dog disease caused by a virus affecting the central nervous system of the dog. Rabies is known to be spread through saliva. There are several stages observed in the dogs. In the first stage the dogs are seen with a behavior change, in the second stage the dogs become very violent and in the third stage body parts of the dogs stop coordinating with each other. There is no cure till now for this deadly disease.

Bloat: This is a serious condition of the dog. The stomach of the dog gets twisted, which is due to over eating. The symptoms of bloat are restlessness and depression combined with dry heaves.

Distemper: It is considered to be the worst dog disease worldwide. This leads to fatal condition of the puppies up to 80 percent and adult dogs up to 50 percent. The common symptoms of this disease are congestion in the chest, coughing, diarrhea, gunky eyes, nasal discharge etc. At later stages it affects the nervous system of the dogs leading to paralysis. It is a highly contagious dog disease. It can be transmitted from the feces of the infected dog. This dog disease too does not have any cure.

Parvovirus: It is a very contagious disease affecting the intestinal tract of the dogs. It is also said to affect the heart of the dogs. The symptoms of this disease are severe diarrhea, depression, decrease of appetite. The feacel matter of the dog is found to be in a different color with blood stains. The symptoms appear within hours of the infestation and can even kill the dog within 2 to 3 days of infection. Hence, it is considered as a deadly disease.

Kennel Cough: It is very common among dogs. It is a kind of respiratory disease. This can be easily treated.

Canine Viral Hepatitis. This disease affects the liver, kidney and the blood vessels of the dogs. The common symptoms are profuse thirst, vomiting, hemorrhages, loss of appetite etc. This virus too spreads through the faeces of the dogs.

Leptospirosis: This disease is caused by bacteria and, even human beings get affected by the bacteria. There are several species of bacteria found to produce the disease in dogs. The common symptoms include lethargy, fever, kidney inflammation, clotting of blood and conjunctivitis. In more chronic conditions it can produce pneumonia, intestinal inflammation and jaundice.

Heartworm: Heartworms are a kind of parasites which multiply and grow, causing infection in the chambers of the heart and arteries of the lungs. The symptoms may start with mild cough, fatigue and lethargy. If it is not treated properly it can lead to congestive heart failure.

Retinal Dysplasia: Abnormal development of the retina is the disorder. This is very common in most of the dog breeds. The minor forms lead to vision problems and the acute forms leads to total blindness in dogs. Cataract can also accompany with this disorder.

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f_01310585985_img-0382.jpgWhen it comes to getting ourselves or our children a pet, most of us think of a playful puppy or fuzzy kitty, but chances are few of us think about