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Catnip – Everything You Need to Know About Catnip!

January 15, 2012 By Leave a Comment
Catnip –   Everything You Need to Know About Catnip!

 

       Catnip   is a perennial herb and member of the Mint family Labiatae that is well known for it’s ability to get cat’s high. It is native to   Europe & Asia, however has become naturalised in America & Canada   after being introduced. There are approximately 250 species of Catnip, and   this figure doesn’t include hybrid species. Some of the more readily   available ones are:

Common   Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
White flowers, grows up to 3 feet. This is the variety most cats enjoy.

Camphor   Catnip (Nepeta camphorata
White flowers with purple dots, grows up to 18 inches. Camphor scent.

Greek   Catnip (Nepeta parnassica)
White, pale pink flowers, grows up to 18 inches.

Lemon   Catnip (Nepeta cataria citriodora)
White flowers, spotted with purple, grows up to 3 feet. The leaves have a   lemony scent.

Catmint   (Nepeta mussinii)
Purple flowers. This plant has smallish, grey/green leaves. It   grows up to 15 inches high.

The   name Nepeta is believed to have come from the town of Nepete in   Italy. Cataria is thought to have come from the Latin word for cat.

Catnip   is also known by the following names:   Cataria,  Catmint,   Catnep, Catrup, Cat’s Heal All,  Cat’s-play, Cat’s Wort, Catswort,   Catwort, Chi Hsueh Tsao, Field Balm, Garden Nep, Herba Cataria, Herba Catti,   Nebada, Nep.

The   active ingredient which causes this is an essential oil called nepetalactone,   which can be found in the leaves & stem of the plant. Other constituents   include Acetic Acid,  Alpha & beta-nepetalactone, Citral,    Nepetalactone,  Geraniol, Dipentene, Citronellol, Nerol, Butyric Acid,   Valeric Acid and Tannins.

When   a cat encounters catnip, it usually sniffs it, rubs against it, licks it   & finally eats it. It’s actually the sniffing that gets produces the   high, it’s believed that cats eat catnip to bruise the catnip & therefore   release more of the nepetalactone. The high produced will usually last   between five & ten minutes.

When   sniffed, catnip will stimulate a cat, however when eaten it will act as a   sedative.

Around   50% of cats are affected by catnip, and those who are, are affected to   differing degrees. Kittens younger than 8 weeks old aren’t  able to   enjoy it’s effects. In fact, they show an aversion to it.  The response   to catnip appears to be inherited as an autosomal gene. It’s not just   domesticated cats who enjoy the effects of catnip, many lot of wild species   also enjoy it.  Cats can smell 1 part in a billion  in the air.   Males & females, entire or desexed, there appears to be no one group who   is more readily affected by catnip than another.

Nepetalactone causes a hallucinogenic effect. Some say the   effects are similar to LSD, others say similar to marijuana. Because cats   roll on the floor, which mimics a female in estrus, it has been suggested   that catnip acts as an aphrodisiac, but this is unlikely as males react in   just the same way. What is likely is the cat is reacting to similar   “feel good” pheromones released during  sexual   courtship/activity. However, non sexual behaviour including playing, chasing   & hunting can also be observed.  The response to catnip is via the   olfactory system. Even cats who can’t smell will can still respond to catnip.

The   effects of catnip seem to change from cat to cat. I have one cat who drools   & rolls on the floor, I have another one who becomes very hyperactive, a   third becomes aggressive, and picks fights with the other cats when he’s had   catnip.

Catnip is not harmful to your cat. They won’t overdose on   it.  Most cats know when they’ve had enough & will refuse any   further offers.

Interestingly,   researchers say that nepetalactone is about ten times more effective at   repelling mosquitos than DEET, which is the active ingredient in most insect   repellents. It was also discovered that catnip repels cockroaches   too!* Plants aren’t alone in containing nepetalactone, some insects   & ants also contain it. It’s been speculated that this protects them from   insects.

Rats   & mice are also believed to have a strong dislike of catnip & will   avoid places where it grows.

If   you set it, the cats will eat it. If you sow it, the cats don’t know it.
Philip Miller, The Gardener’s Dictionary

This   saying came about because fresh catnip is supposedly more attractive to cats   when it is bruised & transplanting catnip bruises the leaves. I   don’t know how much truth there is to that, certainly my cats will have a   nibble on the catnip I keep in their enclosure, which hasn’t been bruised.

Catnip   is usually fairly easy to grow, you should be able to  purchase the   plant from your local garden centre. It likes light sandy soil, and grows   best in full sun.

Most   pet shops either sell catnip toys, or tried catnip. When storing catnip, put   it in an air tight container, in the fridge or freezer.

To   dry fresh catnip, hang upside down in a dry, ventilated area, away from the   sun.

Human   uses:

Catnip   tends to have a sedative effect on humans. It is most often drunk as a tea.

It is   also useful for settling an upset stomach. It has also been used to   treat headaches, scarlet fever, coughing, insomnia & smallpox.

Catnip   can also be used for cuts, studies show it has a natural healing quality.   Crush fresh catnip leaves, damp them & apply to your cut. **

Some   other medicinal uses for catnip are: Anaesthetic, antibiotic, anti rheumatic,   antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, muscular aches and pains,   rheumatism, chills, cold in the joints, haemorrhoids, toothache.

K’Eogh,   in his Irish Herbal (1735) wrote of catnip, “It provokes   urination and menstruation: it expels the stillborn child; it opens   obstructions of the lungs and the womb, and is good for internal bruises and   shortness of breath. Drunk with salt and honey, it expels worms from the body.”   ***

Pregnant   women should avoid catnip.

It   can also be used as an aromatic herb in cooking & salads.

According   to The Herb Garden, “The root when chewed is said to make the most   gentle person fierce and quarrelsome”. In fact, there is a story about   an executioner who would have to chew on the root of catnip so he could bring   himself to do kill.

Valerian   also produces the same reaction in cats. As do plants which contain the   chemical Actinidine.

Bibliography

* Science   Daily

**     277 Secrets Your Cat Wants You to Know by Paulette Cooper & Paul Noble.

*** Herbal   Advisor
Filed Under: Cats, Pet Accessories, PET HEALTH, Pet Needs, Pets

Declawing! What You Need To Know

January 15, 2012 By Leave a Comment

Declawing! What You Need To Know

What does it mean when a cat is declawed? How is it done? Examine the drawing

on the bottom of this post.

The cat’s claw is not a toenail at the end of the toe as in other animals. It is

movable digit attached to muscle as a finger might be. Note that strong ligaments

and tendons which give power to extend and retract the claws. This is unique in

cats. Without this your cat would not be able to properly grasp, hold or establish

footing for proper walking, running, springing, climbing or stretching. Think of

the cat as having 10 toes on each foot. Declawing is akin to cutting off half their

toes. When the end digit, including the claw is removed, the sensory and motor

nerves are cut, damaged and destroyed. They do not repair themselves or grow

back for many months. Following the surgery there is a wooden lack of feeling,

then a tingling sensation during the long convalescence while the cat must

walk on the stub end of the second digit. Remember that during all this time

the cat may not “rest” his feet as we would after a similar operation but must

continue to scratch in his litter box, walk and attempt to jump as usual

regardless of his pain.

Since cats have keener senses then humans, they suffer even more than humans.

Many pain killing drugs, including aspirin, do not agree with cats and can cause

illness or even death. Anyone who has had surgery will appreciate the problem

that can be created by the inability to take pain-relieving medication. It is also

possible for the claws to grow back, but often not in the normal manner, instead

they may grow through the top or bottom of the paw,creating a bloody, painful

sore. An Atlanta news station recently had a story of a declawing followed by

infection so severe that the cat’s foot had to be amputated.

The cat’s body is especially well designed. The skeleton is better jointed and more

elastic than most other animals and the muscles governing the lithe body are highly

developed. This gives the cat great climbing power. The sharp claws can be

whipped out for business or tucked neatly away. The elastic tendon holds the claw

in it’s own sheath. The claw is flat on each side so it will slide in and out better.

When the cat pulls his claw down with the use of the big tendon that lies along the

under part of the toe, the ligament stretches like a fresh rubber band. It is hooked

on the end for hanging on.

Cats like to keep their claws sharp and clean (and remove the outer sheath of the

nail) by working on the scratching post you provide. Equipping your cat with the

proper scratching post and taking the time to train him to use it will help preserve

your furniture and carpets. Scratching posts made of soft carpeting teach your cat

that soft fabrics, i.e. your sofa and rugs, are proper for scratching. A better idea

are posts made of sisal rope or carpet turned inside out. This encourages your cat

to scratch on hard, coarse surfaces. Training your cat to use this post takes some

effort on your part. If you see him attempting to scratch on furniture or carpet, clap

your hands sharply, say no! then pick him up gently and place him on the sisal

post. (If stronger measures are needed, you might also want to keep a squirt bottle

with plain water handy.) If your cat seems to prefer a particular area, try covering it

with aluminum foil for a while. Catnip-treated cardboard scratchers, best used lying

flat, are also effective. Most cats are pretty smart and after a short time, and much

praise, will get the idea. It is also essential to properly clip your cat’s claws with a

well-made cat claw scissors. The sharp hook must be clipped off without injuring

the pink quick. Cutting into the quick will hurt the cat and you will have a difficult

time holding him quiet the next time.

Besides the physical mutilation, consider what declawing may do to the cat’s

emotions, the personality changes that may occur. Knowing he has not the means

to defend himself, some cats follow the precept of the best defense is a good

offense, and will bite at the least provocation (and it may truly be the least

provocation.) Others become depressed and lose the loving personality that

made you choose him to start with.

“The Learning Channel” had a series of documentaries about cats in January of

1993 and again in July 1995 and several of their comments were appropriate to

this post. In one segment a cat owner spoke to a pet psychologist about her biting

cat. It was no surprise to me when she admitted that the cat was declawed.

Another segment showed a kitten being declawed. The commentator said that

declawing was an American procedure and, in fact, most veterinarians in other

countries refuse to do the operation.

I have recently heard about another nasty piece of business that some

veterinarians are advocating as an “alternative” to Declawing; Tendonectomy-

the cutting of the tendons themselves to prevent the claws from being extended.

This is a bad, if not worse, than declawing itself. The claws continue to grow and

constant maintenance of trimming must be done for the rest of the cat’s life. ( The

same trimming procedure that if done anyway will keep your cat’s intact claws

shortened, blunted and less damaging to your furniture.) Failure to trim claws in

this situation will result in additional veterinary attention throughout the cat’s life

as the claws will grow around and into the paw pad of the foot. You can imagine

how much daily pain a cat would have to go through in this condition.

If you really love your cat, you will want him to lead a long, happy life,

giving and receiving love and affection. If you really love him, and care about him,

don’t declaw him

We wish to thank and give credit to the All State Burmese Society, a CFA club, from whom the bulk of this information was gathered.

Filed Under: Cats, PET HEALTH, Pets

Misconceptions About Cats

January 15, 2012 By Leave a Comment

Misconceptions About Cats

Before deciding to adopt, please be aware of some common misconceptions about

cats and cat care.

Misconception #1 

 Cats are low-maintenance pets

While a cat does not need to be taken out for daily walks as a dog does, they are

by no means low-maintenance– either in the amount of interaction they require

or in the financial responsibility they represent.

Taking on a pet of any kind is a large commitment in terms of both time and

money. Cats are social animals who want and need interaction with their

owners. As with any animal, cats cannot communicate verbally with their

owners, so it is the owner’s responsibility to be constantly watchful of the

animals behavior and alert to any abnormalities. Those who believe that

cats can take care of themselves will be unaware of subtle behavioral

changes that can be signs of the onset of serious illness or injury.

In terms of financial commitment, cat owners should plan to spend

between $800 to $1,000 per year per cat on the basics: food, litter

and regular vet care. These costs, of course, increase dramatically

should an illness or injury occur which would require  additional

vet care and/or hospitalization.

 

Misconception #2
Cats can be left alone for a few days at a time and will take care of

themselves.

Not true at all! If an owner is going to be gone for more than 12-14 hours,

someone else should be assigned or hired to look in on and take care of the

cat. Cats who are left alone for long periods of time can get into all sorts of

trouble, become depressed, and even get sick.

For example, a cat who develops a urinary track infection can become critically

ill in less than 24 hours. Therefore, if you are even planning just a short weekend

getaway, a pet sitter or a friend should be looking in on the cat at least twice per

day. This person should plan to stay for a minimum of one hour so they can

observe the cat and make note of any behavioral abnormalities (ideally, it should

be someone who knows the cat fairly well so the better to notice if something

seems different). Of course, the caregiver should be provided with contact

information for the owner as well as the phone number to the nearest

emergency veterinary clinic and copies of all the animal’s medical record.
Misconception #3 
Cats need to go outdoors and hunt in order to be happy, this is natural

for them.

In today’s world, letting your cat outdoors for any reason or any length of time is

akin to playing Russian Roulette. Outdoor cats are at risk for injury or death

a result of disease, other animals, poison, sadistic people, animal “bunchers” who

collect strays and outdoor pets to sell to laboratories, cars, foul weather, and a host

of other dangers.

Outdoor cats have an average life span of five to seven years, as opposed to their

indoor counterparts, who frequently live to be 15 or older. We have domesticated

our pets, and as such a responsibility to take care of them and look out for their

well being. Your cat may look longingly out the window as though he wants to

go out, but the bottom line is that it is not safe. Creating a stimulating

environment for them inside your home with cat trees, toys, etc., and giving

your pets lots of attention and exercise will ensure that they have a full and

enriched life while remaining safely indoors.
Misconception #4
Pregnant women cannot live safely with a cat.

Many physicians mistakenly inform their patients that they must get rid of

their cat or cats in order to ensure the safety of their unborn child. This

misconception is based on fear of a parasitic disease called Toxoplasmosis,

which can be transmitted from a variety of sources to a pregnant woman

and can be dangerous to her fetus.

Cats are exposed to this parasite through the ingestion of live prey (for

example, mice) and it can be passed by the cats to humans through

handling the cat’s feces, which most commonly occurs during litter box

cleaning. However, assuming the cats are indoor animals (not catching

live prey), there is no danger that a pregnant women or her unborn baby

will contract the parasite from the cat. In fact, pregnant women run more

risk of exposing their baby to Toxoplasmosis by handling raw or undercooked

meat in their kitchen than by handling their indoor cat.

That said, as a precaution, it is best for another family member to be responsible

for litter box cleaning during the pregnancy (and good practice, since after the

baby is born, Mom is certain to have her hands full and this task may need to

be permanently reassigned) or alternatively, for the mother-to-be to wear

gloves and wash her hands thoroughly after cleaning the box if she must

do it herself. Pregnant women should also use caution when gardening in

outdoor areas, which may have been used by strays as open-air litter box.

Misconception #5
A declawed cat is safer for a home with small

children than one which has claws.

 In fact, exactly the opposite is true. A declawed cat, feeling as though its

first line  of defense is missing, is much more likely to be a biter. Children

often do things that may irritate a cat, such as pulling its ears or tail, and

the animal’s natural  reaction is to defend itself. A declawed cat does not

have the option scratching the child as a deterrent so it is likely to bite

first and ask questions later.

Unfortunately, while a scratch tends to be superficial and will heal easily,

bits are puncture wounds and are serious injuries to anyone, especially a

young child.

Expectant or new parents who declaw their cats in hopes that it will

protect their children are actually exposing them to much more serious

injuries. Children should be taught as early as possible how to

appropriately interact with the family cat, minimizing the occasions

on which the cat may need to defend itself.

It goes without saying that for the safety of both the child and the

animal, young children should never be left unsupervised for any

length of time with any kind of pet.

 

Misconception #6
My Older cat needs a kitten to liven him up!

In general, adopting a kitten (1½ years or younger) as a companion

for an older cat ( 5 years and older) is not a good idea. A youngster has

boundless energy, wants to play and run constantly, and requires very

high amounts interaction–all of which are likely to overwhelm and

irritate an older cat in short order. Likewise, a kitten is apt to be

frustrated that its companion does not have the same energy level

as itself. At the very least, this can lead to two very unhappy cats.

Worse case scenario, behavior problems such as litter ox avoidance

or destructive scratching can occur as one or both cats act out their

frustrations on their surrounds.

Long-term, it is almost certain that the two will never have a close,

bonded relationship, even after the kitten matures, since their

experience with one another from the beginning of the relationship

are likely to be negative. An older cat is better matched with someone

of their own age who has similar temperament. Likewise, kittens as a

rule need other young cats to play with in order to be happy.

If you insist on adding a kitten to a household that already has an older

cat, at least get two–this way they will entertain one another and the

older cat can participate or not depending on its mood.

Filed Under: Cats, Pets

A Comprehensive Guide Training Your Cat or Kitten to Scratch Appropriately

January 15, 2012 By Leave a Comment

A Comprehensive Guide
Training Your Cat or Kitten to Scratch Appropriately

Training a feline friend to scratch only what belongs to him or her is simple. You can prevent or eliminate damage to your belongings by communicating with your kitty. It will be a very rewarding and satisfying experience that will make both of you feel great!

To get results, you must do three things:
1. Provide an irresistible scratching surface.
2. Praise your cat when he/she uses the appropriate surface and scold when claws are used anywhere else.
3. Trim your cat’s claws.

Let’s take a closer look at each item on our list.

Post Training, Encouragement and Praise

Okay, you don’t want Cleo to damage your furniture. But scratching is natural and instinctive, helping your cat shed layers of claw sheaths and stretch and flex muscles. Since your cat cannot stifle his or her desire to scratch, provide an ideal object of desire–a good scratching post.
The surface of the scratching post should be covered with a rough, tough material, sisal, hemp, or something similarly nubby. Carpet does not satisfy most cats and can confuse them because they will not be allowed to scratch the carpet on the floor of your home.
The scratching post should be sturdy, not shaky, and tall enough so your cat can raise its paws above its head and stretch its body while digging its claws into the surface. It should also have a strong, wide base that will not tip when they scratch.
It is wise to give kitty an extra scratching surface, such as a corrugated cardboard floor mat or two. It’s also a good idea to place a scratching post on each floor of your house or in more than one spot if your house has several rooms.
To introduce your cat to the post, it helps to sprinkle a little catnip onto its surface. This will interest your cat in the post. Call your kitty to the post in a pleasant, encouraging tone. Stand over the post and pat it, calling your cat by name. Try rubbing or scratching the post with your nails. Stroke your kitty’s back and follow through to the tail, applying slight pressure. This motion causes many kitties to raise their front paws to the post. Many cats do not like it if you forcibly put their paws on the post – they like to think everything is their idea. Be audibly pleased even if your cat only comes up and inspects the post. You want the cat to take full possession of the post, so never remove it or obstruct access to it.
Another trick to interest kitty in the post is dangling a toy such as a “Cat Dancer” over it, or looping a string once around it near the top and pulling the taut string back and forth (don’t leave string unattended!). When she lunges at the toy or string, her paws will land on the textured surface and she’ll just naturally dig in. Then she will discover that the post has great scratching potential.
A good place for the post is where kitty sleeps or eats. Many cats enjoy a good scratch upon waking and before mealtime. Should your cat show interest in any other surface, the fabric on a sofa or a stereo speaker say, place the post in front of the off-limits item to divert kitty’s attention. You can later gradually move the post to a more desired location.
Praise–soothingly delivered–speeds the learning process. You may think your cat often ignores you, but she’s just pretending! She knows when you’re happy with her. As time goes by, continue to praise her when she scratches, even after she is sufficiently trained. This further cements her good feelings about her post and reminds her that you are pleased. Even middle-aged and older cats enjoy this type of praise.
It is important to remember that you should never play with your cat or kitten with just your bare hands. Always have a toy in your hand when you play. If your kitten pounces on you or grabs you with her claws, remove her, scold her sternly, and distract her with a toy or her post. A cat or kitten who thinks that your “paws” are a great interactive toy is one who will pounce, bite or scratch you at the most inopportune moments. It is a habit that should not be started.

Consistent Scolding and Deterrents

Consistent scolding is crucial to the learning process. It can help break an established habit of raising paws to the wrong objects. Every piece of furniture and carpet should be off-limits, all the time. No piece of human furniture, even if designated “for-the-cat,” should be all right to scratch. The distinction between the two is not clear to your cat.
Scold in a low, serious voice. Say, “Nooooo, Cleo!” and remove her if she lingers. Then take her gently to her post and pat on it, encouraging her.  Be careful not to show anger when doing this, or she will associate the post with negative feelings and avoid it.  Suggest that she scratch with one of the tricks above.  Praise enthusiastically if she does.  A much safer strategy is to elicit scratching behavior before she uses an off-limits item.  That means that when you notice her waking up from a nap, e.g., in the morning or when you return home from work, etc., try to remember to go to the post yourself and scratch your nails on it.  Scratching is a very social activity for cats.  Seeing one cat (or person!) scratch can attract a cat to follow the lead.  The point is to make her special scratching furniture attractive and your couch unattractive, both emotionally and physically. To physically make your furniture unattractive, many things can be done. A thick throw over the couch works, as it moves with your kitty’s claws and does not allow your cat to “dig in.” Certain non-toxic air fresheners, like citrus, mint, or lavender, also work for carpeted areas and the like. Double-sided tape, a foil covering, or the bottom, prickly side of a plastic carpet runner are all surfaces that can protect different items. Most are temporary measures that assist your training but are removed later. A product called “Sticky Paws” is made for this purpose, and the listing is at the end of this article.
Another good deterrent is a can of coins or beans or some other noise-maker. Cats hate jarring noises. If she forgets and raises her paws to the couch, an unexpected shake of the can works wonders. If your cat is stubborn, a light spray from a child’s water gun or spray bottle makes a great deterrent. Do not spray at your cat, but rather right next to her. Do this when she lifts her paws to the wrong surface and if verbal correction does not work first. Most cats will jump and scat right out of there. Remember not to do it out of anger or irritation. She may feel insulted and therefore become more stubborn.
Counteract the scolding by giving her even more encouragement when she shows interest in her post. It is important to always do this, because scolding without encouragement frustrates her and makes her believe that she is not allowed to scratch anything at all, and this is not the case. And always remember not to raise your voice too much. This can upset you and your cat and do more harm than good.

Clipping Those Claws

The last important component of the training process is clipping your kitty’s claws. This should be done from the beginning, and even adult cats who are new to the household can be trained. Again, the process should be done gently and calmly, with as little frustration on your part as possible.
Approach your cat only when you are feeling calm. Put an arm around her body and let her face away from you. Try not to press on or restrict her too much, but rather gently encompass her with your arms so that she cannot back or jump away. Grasp the front paw farthest from you and put pressure in the middle of it. The claw will become unsheathed and stick out. This does not hurt, but it annoys some cats, so go slow. The cat claw is shaped like a scythe, and the part that curves over is what you clip. Using cat claw clippers (available at any pet store), clip only the clear part of the claw, and stay away from the inner pink cuticle. There are four toes and one dewclaw on each front paw and four toes on each back paw. Switch the side of your cat that is nearest you to do the opposite paw. To clip your cat’s back claws, leaning over your cat with your arms around her usually works best. Experiment and learn which way is most comfortable for your cat.
Again, praise while you clip. If your cat becomes agitated, keep praising and go slowly. If your cat is instantly agitated, it may work best to do only one or two claws each day. If your cat does not want her paws touched at all, touch them a little bit each day, then more and more to get her used to that first. Do not allow your frustration to affect your manner with your cat. The point is to make it an experience that is not unpleasant. The more you handle her paws, the more accustomed she will become to the procedure.
Trimming the claws makes them blunt and takes away the tips, which do all the damage. Regularly-clipped claws are hardly noticeable when you handle your cat and will not snag your clothing or other surfaces. Closely-clipped claws will not harm a leather couch, even when your cat jumps off of it.
Another viable option for claw-clipping is to have your veterinarian’s office do it. For a nominal fee and a brief appointment, the quick visit can become a simple routine for both you and your kitty. Whether you do it or have your vet’s office do it, claw clipping should be done around every three to six weeks, depending on your preferences.

“Soft Paws” and Other Options

There are also products that exist to help protect your furniture. Training is the best method because it does not require regular purchases or various materials, but some products work well for certain people and cats. As mentioned before, “Sticky Paws” strips work by making the furniture sticky and therefore not attractive to your cat, yet do not harm the furniture. “Soft Paws” claw caps are applied to the cat’s claws and cover them so that your cat can still use her claws but not do any damage. However, it should be noted that “Soft Paws” are not a quick fix if your problem is clipping your cat’s claws. “Soft Paws” do require application and your cat to sit still for a certain amount of time. Your vet may be willing to help with this process.

It may seem that this training process is complicated. It is actually quite easy to learn, and the rewards are many. When your cat greets you in the evening by sauntering over to her post and scratching like crazy, you will be thrilled at your success and yet your furniture and other possessions will remain intact.

Scratching Posts

CATS Northeast makes heavy, sturdy scratching posts in horizontal or vertical styles at half the price of catalog versions.  If you’re handy and would prefer to make your own, they will send you the plans for an optional donation to help with printing and mailing costs.  Contact them at info@catsnortheast.org. 

Products

* Soft Paws nail caps — Call 800-433-7297 or go to www.softpaws.org.  Lasts four to six weeks, safe and non-toxic.
* Sticky Paws for furniture — Call 888-697-2873 or go to www.stickypaws.com.   Transparent, acrylic based and non-toxic, won’t harm furniture or cats.

Suggested Reading

* The Cat Who Cried for Help: Attitudes, Emotions, and the Psychology of Cats by Dr. Nicholas Dodman
* The New Natural Cat: A Complete Guide for Finicky Owners by Anitra Frazier

Filed Under: Cats, Pet Needs

Feline Leukemia

January 15, 2012 By Leave a Comment

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Feline Leukemia

Holistic veterinarians are now fighting
FeLV with “new” weapons

BY FRAN HODGKINS

For an owner whose cat has tested positive for the presence of the feline leukemia virus (FeLV), there may seem to be little hope. But thanks to holistic medicine, an FeLV-positive cat may have a better chance of survival than in the past.

Feline leukemia is a disease caused by a virus in the “me family of viruses as feline immunodeficiency virus. The FeLV virus can lead to anemia, tumors, kidney disease, and reproductive disorders including infertility. The symptoms may include fever, weight loss, anemia, poor diet, vomiting or diarrhea, and pleurisy. It is not considered treatable by conventional methods, but research is showing that not all cats will die from the disease, and that new treatments may bring hope to FeLV-positive cats and their owners.

What FeLV?

According to Dr. Neils C. Pedersen of the University of California at Davis, “It is an infection that is endemic among free roaming cats, with one to 2 percent, plus or minus, of the cats carrying the virus and shedding it in their saliva, feces and urine.” Although FeLV isn’t serious in nature, Dr. Pedersen says, it can be devastating for cats in an indoor environment. Indoors, the infection 0 is 30 times worse than outdoors, with about one-third to one-half of the cats infected for life, the rest will dune it off. Of the exposed cars, about half will die each year.

As a result, the presence of one FeLV-positive cat in the household is cause for concern. Most conventional vets recommend vaccinating cats—especially if they go outdoors–against FeLV. However, three holistic vets we spoke to do not generally suggest the vaccine to their clients. Dr. Susan Wynn, executive director of the Georgia Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, says that the vaccine’s effectiveness is “far from clear.” She says, “It may work kind of well,” but wonders if the apparent decline in FeLV cases that veterinarians have seen is due to the vac-cine or to the increased isolation of infected cats.

Of cats that become infected, Dr. Wynn says, about a third will get ova it, a third will have negative signs of the virus in their blood, ant a third will test persistently positive.

Testing for the virus

Two main tests are used to detect FeLV: the ELISA test, which can be done at the vet’s office, and the IFA (immunoflouroassay) or Hardy test The ELISA test detects the virus in the blood; the IFA, within white blood cells. Notes Dr. Debbie Mallu, a holistic veterinarian in Sedona, Arizona, the ELISA test shows an early infection. “The animal may ward it off,” she says.

Conventional treatments, including chemotherapy, generally relieve symptoms and may prolong life. However, there are no guarantees. Dr. Mallu encourages ha clients not to view an FeLV positive as a death sentence. She urges them to “be more positive. Think, ‘Yes, my cat is sick, but what can we do to make him better?’”

A good diet comes first

“Nutrition is such a big factor in resistance,” says Dr. Carolyn Blakey, who practices in Richmond, Indiana. She suggests owners put their cats on a raw-meat diet, including liver. She also suggests vegetables, noting that owners can offer their cats different ones to determine which ones they’ll eat; cats have been known to enjoy cucumbers and Brussels sprouts! Veggies can be cooked or served raw, or even pureed. However, Dr. Blakey does not encourage owners to give their cats baby food unless it’s organiC.

Like Blakey, Dr. Mallu recommends a raw-meat, homemade diet and supplemental vitamins, enzymes, and fatty acids, as does Dr. Wynn. Wynn also provides her clients with immune-system stimulants, such as Rachie mushroom.

The use of herbs

Other immune-system stimulants include herbs, both western and Chinese. Dr. Mallu explains that the use of Chinese herbs helps build Chi–the energy that flows through the body (it’s most familiar to Western persons as being the focus of acupuncture, which stimulates and corrects the flow of chi by inserting fine needles at points along the chi’s flow paths, the meridians). She uses the Chinese herb Dong Qui in cats with FeLV. For cats suf- from anemia due to an FeLV infection, she uses the high-iron herb Yellow Dot to help improve the blood.

However, note that herbs, if given by someone not familiar with their effects, can do more harm than good; it’s important to work with a holistic vet who is trained in administering them. (See related story on herbs on page 7.)

Although Dr. Wynn says she “hasn’t been too excited” by her experiences with antiviral herbs, she notes that another antiviral element can be helpful to FeLV-cats: interferon.

Interferon is a family of proteins that have been used to treat a variety of human diseases, including liver disease, multiple sclerosis, and HIV. Besides being antiviral, interferon has the added bonus of being an immune stimulant, Dr. Wynn notes.

Other immune system stimulants being tried with some success include lmmunoRegulin, baypamun, and acemannan, a derivative of the aloe plant. Be sure to work with your vet if you want to investigate these treatments because they cannot always be used; for example, ImmunoRegulin should not be used if a cat has developed a Iymphosarcoma. Baypamun, a homeopathic remedy, is designed to cure infections in kittens; it is not necessarily meant by its manufacturer to be an FeLV treatment. Dr. Wynn notes that she has used acemannan, but finds that herbs work just as well and have the additional benefit of providing nutrients.

Homeopathy can help

Dr. Blakey has also found that homeopathy remedies can sometimes be helpful. Homeopathy is based on the concept of “like cures like.” A homeopathic remedy is a minuscule amount of a plant, mineral, or animal-derived substance that is given to cure symptoms. For example, arsenic, a poison, can cause serious gastro-intestinal problems; however, the homeopathy remedy derived from arsenic may actually cure the ailment. Veterinary _ consult with the owners and take a histo-ry of the animal in question and then, based on the answers, select a remedy. Because the remedy chosen is based on the particular animal’s needs and preferences–for example, if the cat prefers to be warm or cool–it’s not possible to name one or two homeopathic remedies for FeLV.

Note that herbs, if given by someone not familiar with their effects, can do more harm than good; it’s important to work with a holistic vet who is trained in administering them.

To find a homeopathic vet, you can check Dr. Wynn’s website, AltVetMed (www.altvetmed.org). It includes a list of members of the American Holistic Veterinary Medicine Association, and includes each vet’s specialties and contact information.

No matter which form of treatment you and your veterinarian choose to use, isolating the infected cat is still a good idea. Other cats in the household should be tested too, or immunized if feasible. Not only will isolating FeLV-positive cats from FeLV negative cats protect the ones that test negative, it will also protect the cat that has tested positive from possibly catching illnesses from its companions.

Dr. Blakey notes that human clients tend to “react more negatively than necessary,” when the diagnosis is FeLV Some cats will live long and relatively healthy lives, although infected with the virus. FeLV-positive doesn’t have to be a death sentence. “Cats have a good chance of bouncing back,” says Dr. Wynn.

Fran Hodgkins is a freelance writer who lives in Massachusetts with her husband, daughter and four cats. She is a member of the Cat Writers ‘Association.

Allopathic Options for Feline Leukemia

Although mere is no hard and fast cure for FeLV, certain other traditional drug therapies may enable the cat to remain fairly healthy for up to several months. The Whole Cat Journal, while aiming for a holistic approach in treatment, believes that a cat owner should exhaust every possibility in the attempt to save the life of a cat, or ease its suffering.

Chemotherapeutic drugs may produce a temporary remission, depending on me general health of the cat and its type of leukemia. Some of these are in the experimental stage and their efficacy is qualified.

Phosphonoformate (PFA) appears to have the potential to suppress FeLV and is not poisonous at the cellular level.

Suramin, used for treating prostate and other cancers, may also be effective in treating the disease.

Phosphonylmethoxyethyladenine (PMEA) has harsh side effects, so it can’t be used on a long-term basis. It has been used for treating the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus and may work against other viruses such as FeLV.

Staphylococcus Aureus-Protein A (Staphylococcus A) has been used experimentally against FeLV and associated tumors; it has been shown to help interferon therapy work.

DEC (Diethylcarbamazine) has been shown to decrease, but not eliminate the virus, particularly In young cats. Its use, however, does not appear to be widely known.

Prednisolone may work against the Iymphosarcoma tumors caused by the disease. In addition, steroids can inhibit cells that are normally responsible for destroying senescent (aging) red blood cells, which can combat anemia and destruction of red blood cells.

Although the long-term use of steroids compromises a cat’s immunity, cats do have a relatively high tolerance for them. Therefore a high quality diet and other immune-building strategies should be followed.

Taken from “The Whole Cat Journal- February 1999″

Filed Under: Cats, PET HEALTH